Hi Steve,
Yeah what started out as a hobby turned into a full time business over night for me. It wasnt intentional it just sort of happened that way. I launcehd a website earlier this year thinking it would be a side hobby type of business. Something I could do in my spear time.
I was wrong!!
In four short months Ive had to quit my job as field service engineer for a CNC machine tool company and go into this full time. I have established dealers around the US, Canada and the UK. I just started shipping machines a couple weeks ago in beta form.
My little M-1-SGU is what started it all and it is what I would consider a micro gaisifier. I run a 2000 watt 2.8 HP gen with it. It will run a 1300 watt load for 5 hrs. I run pellets in its small form and it performs pretty decent. I will be installing a mount plate for a hopper vibrator for it going forward. Here is vid of it running a 4000 gen under 1500 watt load. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-uLwejWSVc&list=UUIj9jrb2pG4mNb_njWMKxPg...
This unit can be expanded to make it bigger as well. http://www.vulcangasifier.com/M-1-SGU.html
I am prepping my 67 JD round fender tractor for an updated M-1. Im probably going to convert it to run on ethanol and bump up the compresion and advance the timing. I will create a thread for this build later.
The unit in my avitar is the E-1 it is spec'd to run around 50 hp engines or around 30 cfm through the unit. I just lauched this unit and am still testing. I have a customer that will be bringing a Farm All M here to the shop to have one installed. I am considering launching another unit that is just a much larger version of the M-1 that may be better siuted for this aplication. This cuctomer is prepared to help with finance and development.
Ive been around in the altnrgy online comunity for some time although much of what I have done has been on private forums. Woodgas was something I took on a few years ago along with many other technologies. I believe I have much to offer to boimass to syngas technologies. My background spans back about 20 years in building speacial automated machinery and engineering. Also I was a certified auto tech. Ill update my profile with all this later. I gotta get back to work. LOL
Thanks for this site there is much to learn here.
Matt Ryder
Vulcan Gasifier
Hi Matt,
If you want to, shoot me a decent picture and blurb, I'd be happy to post an ad in the classified section for ya. http://driveonwood.com/classifieds
Thanks for the engine running Info MattR. Real good low output performance.
Please do take ChrisKY up on his offer for a classified listing.
I am one of the ones saying gasification is best learned by DOing. Your system is now the most affordable entry level into this.
My West Coast mountain dial-up time for YouTube viewing is 12:00 AM - 2:00AM. So for us Rural and Mountain folk over here you have to keep'em short 3 minutes (45-60 minute down load) or under, to be watched by the majority here who would actually get and actually use one of your weld up or DYI kits.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Hi Chris,
That would be great!!
A quick word of what Vulcan is about:
Vulcan Gasifier is a manufacturer of entry level, simple to operate gasification systems to meet multiple applications. We offer our systems at low cost and are customizable to meet your needs. We also offer a payment option to make it easier on the budget. To see our full product line go to vulcangasifier.com
Yeah Steve the DIY Kit needs much updating. Things have evolved so fast I cant keep up with myself. lol. This kit will now have the excact components as the fully built M-1. It is a little more complex to build than the first kit and will require us to prebuild the reactor and we will build the blower housing as well. So the cost on that one will go up a bit.
One thing I should mention on the little set up. It is not perfect, it does require constant monitoring. Usually just a bump on the grate will satisfy it. Im hoping the hopper shaker will fix this. Pellets tend to clog things up. So every once in while the char needs to be loosened up. The grate depth on all my units is adjustable. When running pellets I found that the grate really needed ot be choked up so the pellets could be better consumed and when running the little motors on this fuel longer jets were in order. I have ran chips with it and ran into bridging issues. So I have revised this unit to flow better plus the hopper shaker will help.
OK Matt, you got it. http://driveonwood.com/classifieds/vulcan-gasifiers
HEY MATT, I SAW YOUR GASIFIER ON E-BAY, GREAT TO SEE SOMEONE , TAKING THIS TO THE NEXT LEVEL, IN MARKETING AND FABING
That is sweet Chris Thanks :)
Yeah Dave Im a trying. Every thing happend so fast but at the same time its been slow going. I had to develop these gasifiers a bit farther than where I was when It started. I wasnt prepaired for the response. I have a good start now and they are now shipping out into the world. Im expecting things to really get busy now. I was just talking with the dealer in the UK and he thinks he will have a big order soon. Right now I have 24 orders on the board. Im trying to build two a week. Actually four every two weeks. It is starting to progress.
Hello Matt,
I like your straight forward and compact design. Nice flare. I am sure there is demand for such simple and therefore probably affordable gasifier units.
Engines also seem to like your gasifier, since they can easily be hand cranked. An engine that can be started with only one or two pulls is the ultimate test for a gasifier. Two questions. What kind of filter medium do you use? How does the gasifier behave on wood chips?
Regards,
DJ
Hi Dj
Ive read some of your other post and seen some of your excellent work. Im jelouse!!
You do some awsome work and I have much to learn from you.
As for filters Ive played around with different filter medias and just did not have much luck. Either the tars got thru any ways or it was too restrictive. Ive built a bulbler/media filter combo that worked OK but the bubbler was to restrictive. So I went back to tuning the gassifier until it made clean gas with out any filters.This took lots of pacients and days of tweaking.
Wood pellets I think is the way to go with the small gassers. Once I was able to get consitant fuel flow going thru the gasser, I could then establish the best possible perameters that the unit would produce good gas. Its not 100% as conditions change all the time in the gasser but it does recover.
I am open to ideas for additional filtration. My question is do you really need to filter the tars or can they be condensed?? To me (and Im still learning here) it seems when the tars come out they are in a gas form just like the moisture. Does the tar just need a lower temp than the moister to be condensed out?
Also I do have a simple cyclone/water trap, That I have just before the ICE that I mix the air fuel in. The idea there is to introduce cold air to further condense the gas and get out any remaining tars and moister. What Im now considering is a finnal filter that will use the activated char that comes out of the gassifier as a finnal filter and have this after that.
Thanks for the kind words I look forward to your respnce.
Im still working on getting wood chips and chunks to work and I do think I will get there. I have not been able to test the new design yet with these fuel medias. I think with the new design and the addition of a hopper shaker it will work though.
Hello Matt,
You cannot filter tars. They pass every filter, because you can consider them gas or fumes until they condense further downstream. Mostly just after a pressure drop, like behind a throttle valve. Best way is to avoid tars, by a well insulated hearth, right dimensions and a fuel that is consistent in flow. Every gasifier makes some tars, but the trick is to have only those that do not condense very easy.
Wood chips are not an easy fuel in a small gasifier. They tend to bridge, causing clinkers and tars. Not real hollow burns that stops an engine, but short time bridging. Hard to recognize, but if you make tar AND clinkers you have short time bridging.
Regards,
DJ
Very good info, so it looks like Im on the right track.
Hi Matt,
I really like the flare and the video of running the generator. Really good stuff. I also checked out the site and saw the builder kit. That seems to be a good value and would save people a lot of time. I have seen just a few burners using pellets, but I chose to do my learning on pellets and I have a few questions for you...
Are you using a gravity feed for the pellets from the upper tank ?
I see you use a condensation trough, is that the right angle ring thingy and does it go at the top of the hopper close to the lid ?
Have you seen any problems with the pellets getting all soft and crumbly ?
Do you know about what temperature the gas starts to condense and does your cooler get there ?
Hi Gary,
For the feed I am useing a gravity for the feed. The units do have a mount plate for a hopper shaker to address bridging if needed. As for the pellets getting soft I did have some issues there, However after tuning this problem has been resolved. I have increased the size of my condensor a bit more, so there is still some more testing to there. It does a pretty good job though. I also use a seperator at the engine to get rid of tar and moister. This compination has worked very well for me and is free flowing. Ive enlarged the tubing on the condensor to accomadate larger engine sizes and still need to test at the higher CFM. I have not had to much issue with condensation either. I think the unit is tuned to the point where it is cracking the moister.
As for the Kit, It is on hold at the moment. The gasifiers have evolved very rapidly and I just have not had the time to update all the prints and procedures. Once we get caught up I'll start work on the kit. It is going to go up in cost as well it will be a little more involved for us to build but it will be a much better kit.
Would you consider selling me just a cooler kit ? I like them tubes all compact like that.
Yes I do sell the 5" cyclone and Condensor. You can purchase them sepperatly or as a set. The Cyclone cone has a 5" top opening and a 1.5" bottom openning and is 7" in length. I can accomadate any port size with in reason as well.
The condensor has an optional blower housing. You can get the blower and cage from Auto Zone. If you choose to use your own blower I can provide a bypass. Its just a simple plate that would go in place of the blower housing.
For the condensor I would need $200.00 and with the blower housing I would need $300.00
If you are interested in the Cyclone I would need $200.00 for it. I think I could have them ready in two weeks or less. Actually we will be building four of em next week to complete the builds we have going. I could through in an extra for you if you are interested. Its much faster to build in bulk.
Cranken em out now!!! Three E-1's and an M-1 with expantion hopper. Need to have em ready to ship by the end of the week.
Got a question. I am going to be developing a new unit for large engine aplications. Farm equipment, Autos and such. So I am going to mod the Buick for testing. This car has the 3.8 ltr engine.
My question is do I dare inject the producer gas in before the MAF sensor? Or do I need to build a mixer that I can install after this onto the throttle body. Also can I build a mixer that just meters the producer gas that would work in conjuction with the throtle body plate.
Im going to do a couple experiments. One is I want to run two of the E-1's together. Ive never seen any one do this, Is there a reason you cant run two units in together? It makes sense you can double the fuel capacity and also if you just wanted to run a small engine of one you have that option.
Then I will build the new unit, it is going to share the same arcitectuer as the M-1 just a bit bigger with a 12" hearth. Im going to try and build it so it will eat just about any thing you put in it. I also would like to run a twin set up with this unit as well.
Is your 3800 the aluminum intake early series engine? Looking at trying woodgas on a 1990 Olds. The MAF can carbon up just running on gasoline - so not sure how well it would fare on tar - Mike L can probably answer on the 3.8's. I'm also going to update the old style Magnavox coil to the Delco with the coil towers all on one side. This site has some great info for 3.8's: http://www.6007.us/ Look under 'Cars, Musings, Fixes & More' then Assorted articles (http://padgett.performanceresearch.us/cars/coils.htm) for the switch. Having to do the crankshaft dual hall sensor tomorrow. Also trying the Delco Rapidfire 14 plugs. Got to get it running on gasoline well before trying anything else ;-) Looking forward to seeing how your conversion goes on the 3.8.
William :-)
This one is sort of an odd ball year. It is considered a series I.... but it has the plastic intake plentium like the series II. On this one the plentium comes a part and I think would be easy to clean if needed.
3800's - Looks like a block could be inserted between the MAF and throttle plates? Not sure how the computer would respond if the throttle/TPS or MAF are not used. Base timing is from the dual crankshaft position sensor (18x-3x) and ignition module but receives the advance signal from the computer. It can run in 'module mode' with the computer disconnected, but timing is static at 10 deg btdc. The old series engines I believe only use the camshaft sensor to calculate sequential fuel injection. CTS, MAT, MAF, TPS, VSS, knock sensor also determines ign advance in EST mode. I think I remember someone talking about not dry firing injectors - and putting a relay on the common power/gnd leg, fuel pump, and a shut off valve/solenoid in the fuel line to prevent fuel bleeding with the intake under vacuum. William :-)
i was running a 3.1 1996 GM engine on wood gas. I was running it without the Maf sensor in place but everything else still on. The car ran like crap on gasoline with the maf sensor out of the air stream but then when wood gas was entered in it smoothed out nicely and ran just as it should.
I would start the engine on gas and have to keep revving it to keep it running without the maf. Then I would bleed the woodgas in and once it was getting to rich I would pull the fuel pump fuse. The engine would keep running and need more oxygen. Then when I would pull the injector fuse the engine would need more oxygen yet. You could definitely tell if the injector fuse was pulled out or not by how the engine was running. This was mostly at idle and I'm sure it would affect it more if you were putting a large load on it.
Just my experience. I know a lot of people are running through the maf or air flow sensors and it is not affecting anything. Just make sure there isn't tar and you should be good.
meschke
Well I think Im going to give it try. Now I just have to find the time to do it. Doing this for the first time I think I would rather avoid going throught the MAF. But It sounds like I could put an interuptor in this switch. So I think I see this working. If I inject the gas after the throutle body I could use the throtle body to meter the air just as it is decigned to do and then I would just need to create a valve manifold for the woodgas after the throtle body.
This manifold will have two valves in it one for metering and one for switching off the producer gas. Ill get a few relays to switch the fuel pump, injectors and the MAF sensor off when running on woodgas.
Thanks for the help guys this will be my first vehical install. Running a little engine is easy but it looks pretty involved to run a car. For my cooler Im going to design a new one that will be fan cooled.
Ive gone through and completely redesigned our M-Series I gasifier. We've made many improvements to this machine, it has grown an inch bigger, the reduction bell is now riveted in, the standard hopper has almost doubled in size, and the condensate troft has grown a bit too.
So I now have question, before our condensate troft was built into our lids and now since the lid is redesigned I had to move it into the hopper. Any suggestions for keeping debris from getting in it when refilling the hopper?
See pic bellow
I received an email today regarding a business venture in China. Im going to keep the email confidential, but here are some of the generators they want me to power. They are pretty intimidating, they look like they are diesel too.
Careful MattR.
Yep. The first is a V-10 or V-12 with water cooled exhaust manifolds.
The second an inline six cylinder. Both turbocharged. Yep. Probably both 4-cycle diesels - no evidence of any ignition systems.
The Indians have given up on dual fueling diesel-sets. They only now have Cummins-India and Practash supply spark converted engine gen-sets now. Natural and turbo aspirated. That's not the problem.
Most Asian fuel sources are rice husk and loose different Ag and palm wastes. These are all high silica, low temp melting ash fuels.
NOT something for a high temperature/high turbulence system with a grate like the first generation of Imbert varient late 70's/early 80's Mukunda systems. These fuels problems were why the evolution to the 3rd generation IISc/DASAG/Mukunda systems.
This is all in the "India Papers" links ChrisKY put up in the Resources/Links/PDF sections.
The Chinese gasifier researchers/developers been trying to crack this fuel problem for 30 years. Their "rice husk fueled" systems shipped and set up into SE Asia have very severe problems - all FUEL based.
Regards
Steve Unruh
hehe, Yeah I did respond with an offering of a more scaled down version 20 kW version that could get things started. They do build smaller stuff to. :)
understand, if you build them one that works, there is a good chance they will reverse engineer it and have it produced over there... that is typical Chinese practice
Yeah I think we are better off building our own system. I have a few engines Id like to explore, one is the Kobota and the other is a twin cyl. Honda.
Hi Matt New here I am whole house generator installer and looking for good gasifier for home generators can you help me? They are l/p or nat gas and would really be interested to see what you have!!
Thanks TOM
Hi Tom,
This is the proto type 2 kW unit we are working on. They only going to get bigger from here and the larger versions will feature CHP Systems.
http://driveonwood.com/sites/default/files/styles/verylarge/public/DSCF0...
Would one of them run 14hp motor for generator? And How much are they?
Hi Tom,
This system comes with the engine. We are trying to get away from off the shelf generators, they simply are not designed to run on wood gas. They are designed to run on gasoline or what ever the manufacture has designed them to run on. This system we are working on is a 2 kW DC system and we are using a power inverter to convert to AC. The system has an on board battery bank. We should have the machine ready for testing in the next few weeks.
We will then start a larger version of this machine that will generate 5 kW DC. It will just be a scaled up version of the 2kW proto we are working on. Then we are going to get into larger CHP systems using liquid cooled kohler engine and also GM Vortec industrial natural gas engines. We are currently working with some investors to obtain the funding to create and develop these larger machines. They will range in size from 10 kW all the way up to 150kW units.
The last photo is our ES-II gasifier with integrated heat recirculation. This is the machine we are planning on using for the 5kW system. We can build you just the gasifier too. Just let us know what you want to run and well build it for you.
If you would like to contact me you can go to our website and fill out the contact form or contact me through the forum. Our website is vulcangasifier.com
Hey Matt,
Nice lookin unit you have there!!!!
I don't have much experience with small gensets. I was wondering what problems you found with off the shelf generators? Aside from that they are just not designed
for woodgas what would be the reason for building from scratch rather than trying to modify an existing gasoline generator?
Sean
Consistency is the biggest problem. The AC generators need to run at a certain RPM to maintain the right frequencies. A gasifier will run one but in my case never consistent enough. The rpm range is all over the place. Another issue is the power loss, so just like with the Dakotas you want a big engine on a smaller gen head. A 4000 watt generator running on wood gas is now a 2000 watt generator that you will constantly need to baby sit. Some of the newer generators have systems that will put them into a shut down mode if the right rpm is not met. So if you are pushing the generator to the edge of what it can produce on wood gas that can be an issue. By using a self regulating DC gen head with an engine sized right, the rpm is no longer an issue and then charging into a battery bank the power will be more consistent. Power surging is also less of an issue, the battery bank should absorb this. If there still is an issue you can put a supper cap in place to absorb load surging.
By us designing the complete system this eliminates a lot of issues.
Matt, I know my comments have no weight here, but I have to say that I wholeheartedly agree with the decision to run a battery/inverter system vs. ac generator head. I can list a half dozen very good reasons why this decision is best. In fact, I will:
1. More efficient on net balance because constant speed gas gensets with ac heads operate at a low part load the majority of the time in most cases. The efficiency is absurdly low under these conditions. There is a lot of room to optimize efficiency with what you're doing.
2. Longer lasting because the engine speed can be a lot lower (and because of 3).
3. Cleaner gas because the gasifier can be optimized for a constant load.
4. Lower cost because one doesn't need the massive engine and gen head required for peak power requirements. Let the inverter do it, and inverters are getting better and cheaper by the year.
5. More reliable because of 2, 3, and because run times can be reduced by limiting the system to bulk charging of batteries.
6. More marketable because most of your future customers are likely off gridders who already have batteries and inverters. They would very much like a system optimized for bulk battery charging at a constant rate.
Hi All
Well I do have quite a few AC generation woodgas fueled hours on five different AC package gen-sets. Real PITA for all of the reasons MattR and MattG have listed out. I finally voted for variable speed, variable load DC genration - battery surge load storge - inverter/converter load supping with MY pocket book moneys.
Picures are of my 2.5 kW Trace inverter (+90% efficient) and five commercial Redi-Line rotory converters 500 and 1600 watt. These are "only" 70% efficent. The "waste" heats off of these, as all my system waste heats, to be used to pre-condition the winter wet picked up fuel woods.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Hi Matt checked out your site and your gasifiers only run on wood pellets? Also the m1 would bw about what I am looking for to start to play around with. Thanks for showing me your site and lookjng forward to talk more on the m1.
TOM
Hi Tom,
No some of the gasifiers are offered as small fuels gasifiers and others are large fuels such as chips and chunks. We can set up the M-1 to run chips; however, run times will be short and bridging can be an issue with the smaller gasifiers. The original design intent for the M-1 was to build a simple gasifier that would be the equivalent of the 1 gallon fuel tank most small engines come with. This gasifier was designed originally to run pellets, but later I did experiment with chips running our JD lawn tractor and it did very well. But like I said run times were short. I could only get about 45 min out of a hopper of chips running the 8 hp engine on this tractor.
The M-II would be a better machine if you would rather run chips instead of pellets. We can put what ever size reduction cone in it and proper jetting to fit your application. We also offer our ES-II machine this machine has heat recirculation with a wide open hearth, chips flow very well through this machine. This machine has a second intake air port for injecting preheated air from waist exhaust heat.
Questions from the uninformed:
I'm quite new to this concept so please excuse my ignorance - I've been doing a lot of research the past few weeks on gasification technology and its potential uses and I really am impressed with what I've seen at your website Matt. I am gathering information on what components would needed to construct a CHP system for a small to medium sized home. I've seen that you plan to launch such a system/systems on your website and I was hoping that perhaps some questions I have about the applications of gasification could be answered.
From what I've researched, a gasifier boiler can run on split logs but doesn't accomplish anything beyond heating a home, however stand-alone gasifiers and gasifiers with gensets by and large run on pellets or wood-chips. Can a gasifier genset run on split logs for fuel?
With the newer back-up generators available these days one could set up a DC-generator to charge a bank or banks of batteries to run an entire house while only needing to run intermittently however without an available fuel supply 24/7 things get complicated. Can wood-gas be stored long-term to be usable on-demand in such an application?
If wood-gas CAN be stored could it be used with in-door cooking applications such as a natural gas or propane range/oven? I ask this based on the purported use of wood-gas with generators burning such fuels.
As you see I am still figuring out what the boundaries are with regards to this technology, any responses are much appreciated!
Stephen
As for using split logs I have not personally seen a system capable of running an engine on a small scale. If there is one out there some where please send me a link!!! I have personally seen a machine set up as a boiler that shows some promise of running an engine. However, its gas out put may partially be wasted with the amount of gas this thing makes.
Storing this gas scares me and I will not advise on this except to never do it. Just a little bit of oxy in the mix and you will have a very big explosion. Besides your biomass is already storing it, just take it when you need it.
If you are going to convert your home to off grid using gasification technology. It will be easier for you to make your home fit the gasifier, not making the gasifier fit your home. What I mean by this updating your appliances to energy efficient electric versions. You could go to DC LED lighting and if you are going to build a CHP system then your hot water and heat are already taken care of. If additional heat is needed then I would get a pellet stove or going to geo thermal. Combining renewable energy systems will make them all that much better if they are working together just my opinion. How long you need to run your system depends on how big you build it and the size of your battery bank. None of this will come with out a life style change, you will need to run your house hold more efficiently.
The small 2k and 5k power stations I am building and offering now will just be for power generation. These are not off grid systems a better use for these are supplemental power, a cabin or emergency back up. These machines are the stepping stones to our CHP systems that will be capable of off grid applications. As you have seen here I am experimenting with capturing waist heat and there may be an option later for heating on these smaller units. But it will be limited on these little machines.
Once these machines are fully debugged we will soon after start our full CHP system. This machine will feature liquid cooled engines for heat and hot water and will have plenty of power to give your home.
Here are the engines we will offer the Kohler will be what comes standard and the GM version will be offered as an upgrade.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/31hp-Kohler-Engine-ES-Liquid-Cooled-EFI-LH775-00...
http://chicagoengines.com/industrial/gm16l-industrial-engine.html
Good Morning MattR.
Most excellant answers to a complicated set of questions.
I can fill in some details if I may.
Cordwood/Stickwood gasification for motor fuel is a Holy Grail I pursued for about 2 1/2 years. It actully can be done for about a small percent of a carefully hand loaded batch burn in a crafted hearth. So . . . unable to constantly maintain a continuous reduction pass through char bed that renews itself the average woodgas quality is very poor and you overall make a min of 80% HEAT and only ~20 usable fuel gas for the amount of fuel wood used. Refernced against the typical properly chunked wood fuel gasifier at 70% fuel gas and only 30% heat.
I wasted a lot of time, effort and money on this that would have been much better invested in automating gasifier fuel wood chunking preparing and processing.
StephenS. the old city gas plants from ~the 1840's up until as late as the 1950 made heating fuel and illuminating gas. Mostly from fossil coal but they did have raw wood hearth producers used too. This gas was CARBON DIOXODE. This was when you actualy could easily kill youself sticking your head in an oven. Modern natural gas and propane gas systems are mandated to have a stinky make you puke irritant put into them for thier legal liabilty reasons. Small system produced woodgas has min 8-10% up 20-22% deadly carbon monoxide in it. It is one of the three primary engine fuel componet gases in woodgas.
It only takes 1% CO over a very short time to kill you. You do not ever want to route woodgas into any human or animal occupied space. You will be held reponsible for the brain damaged and the killed.
MattR the newer four pole double ball bearing Hitachi motor/generators are much better than the older Delco Remy two pole units or the very rare old Robert Bosch one's. All are contious belt drive, "A" circut set up and can use the same type of motor windings cut-in/cut-out and generation voltage regulator assemblies.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Thanks for the responses Matt and Steve. I had given some thought to the idea of using efficient electric appliances and LED bulbs in the event that wood-gas couldn't be stored effectively/safely so at least I'm not completely off base.
I guess the next question is are there good quality/cost effective wood-chippers that can either be run off the wood-gas or a battery bank to facilitate fuel production available?
Also about what size or perhaps a better way to phrase it is what sort of Kw and BTU outputs are you looking to achieve with your CHP systems Matt?
I like the idea of a thermal storage unit + radiant floor heating as the circulator pumps aren't a large draw - is such a setup realistic?
Thanks
Stephen S
Don't forget one of the best uses for wood is directly heating the application itself. Turning wood into gas and back into heat is usually unnecessary. Many outdoor gasification boilers are available now. There are some excellent designs for rocket stoves, TLUD gasifier/cookstoves, and so on - directly using the fuel for heat, without smoke.
I still wouldn't be comfortable doing this indoors without ventilation. Perhaps on a screened porch.
On the later CHP Systems the first one will feature 10 kW electric out put. As far as BTU you are way ahead of me on that. I still have some resaerch to do there yet.
Hi All,
I have an immediate need for a sales associate. This is a unique position that requires the knowledge of this technology. Finding individuals that have this knowledge is difficult let alone finding someone that has even heard of the technology. So Im offering this position to you folks here on the forum.
You can do this at home as long as you have an internet connection and have basic computer skills. I would require a trip here to our manufacturing facility once a month to go over product development, scheduling, etc.
Compensation is paid on commision and will be what you make of it. There are other duties that will go along with this position, such as marketing and promoting the product line. Other duties include maintaining our manufacturing schedule, creating quotes and invoicing, work orders, etc. I have developed a very broad product line in a very short time. I am working on expanding this line into full turnkey systems with automated support systems. I'm anticipating very rapid growth once these systems are out in the world. I have orders for four of these machines already and have large investors that will be reviewing one of these machines. So any one with knowledge of handling investments, this would be a plus.
Those that are interested can inquire through the site or contact me through our website; sales@vulcangasifier.com